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How to Connect a Controller to a Nintendo Switch
Every way to pair a controller with a Switch — the official Pro Controller, Bluetooth pads via Change Grip/Order, licensed third-party gamepads and 2.4GHz dongles — plus what works, what will not, and wired play.
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A Switch connects to a controller in one of a few ways, and the method depends on the pad. The official Pro Controller is the simplest: plug it into the dock or the console with a USB-C cable once to sync it, then it reconnects wirelessly on its own. Any Bluetooth pad the system recognises is paired from the Change Grip/Orderscreen: open it, then press the pairing button on the controller until it registers. Licensed third-party pads from the likes of 8BitDo and PowerA pair the same Bluetooth way and are the safe route, while some wireless pads instead use a 2.4GHz dongle that needs a spare USB port — which, in practice, means the dock. The honest caveat is that not every generic Bluetooth controller works with a Switch; sticking to official or licensed pads is how you avoid disappointment. Below is each method in full, plus what to do when a pad refuses to pair, how wired play works, and how to remap buttons once you are connected.
The reason there are several methods is that the Switch has more than one kind of connection. It talks to controllers over Bluetooth, it has a USB-C port on the console for wired and charging, and its dock adds standard USB ports that a 2.4GHz wireless dongle can plug into. Knowing which of those a given pad uses is the whole game. Nintendo's own support pages document the official syncing steps, and the sections below map every common controller onto the right one.
The Pro Controller: the no-fuss route
The Nintendo Switch Pro Controller is the pad the console is designed around, and connecting it is the easiest of all. The first time, plug it into the dock or the console with its USB-C cable; that syncs the controller to that specific Switch in a few seconds. Once synced, you can unplug it and it reconnects wirelesslywhenever you press a button and the console is on — no menus, no repeating the process. If you take it to a friend's Switch, you sync it there the same way with the cable, and it remembers your own console for next time. It also keeps working wired while docked, which doubles as charging. If you are weighing the Pro Controller against the alternatives, our best controllers for Switch roundup ranks the field.
Pairing a Bluetooth pad via Change Grip/Order
For a controller that is notalready synced — a Pro Controller on a new console, a spare set of Joy-Con, or a licensed third-party Bluetooth pad — the universal method is the Change Grip/Order screen. From the HOME menu, go to Controllers, then Change Grip/Order. That screen puts the console into pairing mode. Now hold the sync/pair buttonon the controller — on a Pro Controller it is the small button on the top edge next to the USB-C port; on third-party pads it is usually a dedicated pair button — until the lights on the pad chase and then settle, showing it has registered. That is the pairing done; from then on the pad reconnects on its own. It is the same principle as pairing to other devices, which we cover for phones and PCs in our connect a controller to a phone and connect a controller to PC guides.
Third-party licensed pads: 8BitDo, PowerA and friends
You are not limited to Nintendo's own controllers. A healthy market of officially licensed third-party pads is built specifically to work with the Switch, and these are the ones to trust. Brands such as 8BitDo and PowerAmake Switch-compatible controllers that pair over Bluetooth through the same Change Grip/Order screen above — put the pad into its pairing mode (each brand documents the button combination), open Change Grip/Order, and they connect like any other wireless pad. 8BitDo in particular offers retro-styled and modern designs, many with hall-effect sticks that sidestep drift; our best 8BitDo controllers page covers which do what. The key word is licensed: a pad sold as Switch-compatible has been built and tested for the console, which is exactly the assurance a random generic pad cannot give you.
2.4GHz dongles and the dock's USB ports
Some wireless controllers do not use Bluetooth at all — they connect through a small 2.4GHz USB dongle for a lower-latency link. That dongle needs a spare USB-A port, and the place a Switch offers one is the dock, which has USB ports on it for exactly this kind of accessory. Plug the dongle into the dock, follow the pad's pairing instructions, and it connects while you play in docked (TV) mode. The limitation is the flip side: in handheld or tabletop mode the console itself only has a single USB-C port, so a USB-A dongle has nowhere to go without an adapter. If you play mostly on the TV, a 2.4GHz dongle pad is a fine choice; if you play handheld a lot, a Bluetooth pad is the more flexible one.
Wired play
Many controllers can also run wiredover USB while the Switch is docked, which removes any wireless variability and keeps the pad charged. A Pro Controller works wired over its USB-C cable, and a number of licensed third-party pads are wired-only by design — they plug into the dock's USB port and are ready with no pairing at all, which is the most foolproof connection there is. Wired is worth remembering as the fallback whenever a wireless pad is being stubborn: a cable sidesteps pairing entirely.
Which controllers work — and which will not
This is the honesty the marketing skips. The Switch does not pair with every Bluetooth controller on earth. A PlayStation DualSense or DualShock, or an Xbox Wireless Controller, will not simply pair to a Switch through Change Grip/Order the way they do on a PC or phone — the console only speaks to controllers it recognises. What reliably works is:
- Nintendo's own pads— Joy-Con and the Pro Controller.
- Officially licensed third-party pads— the 8BitDo, PowerA and similar controllers sold as Switch-compatible, over Bluetooth or a dongle as the maker specifies.
- Wired licensed padsthat plug into the dock's USB port.
Anything outside that — an unbranded generic pad, or a controller made for another console — is a gamble: it may need a separate third-party adapter that translates its signal into one the Switch accepts, and even then compatibility varies. The safe, no-surprises route is a first-party or licensed controller, full stop. If a pad that should work is refusing to connect, our controller that will not connect guide runs through the fixes, and teardown references like iFixit help rule a genuine hardware fault in or out.
Button remapping in system settings
Once a controller is connected, the Switch lets you remap its buttons at the system level, so you are not stuck with a layout that does not suit you. In System Settings, under Controllers and Sensors, there is a button-mapping option that lets you swap or reassign buttons per controller and save it as a preset. It is handy for lefties, for accessibility, or simply for moving a jump or crouch somewhere your thumb prefers. It works independently of any in-game remapping, so it applies everywhere. Our how to remap controller buttons guide covers the wider picture across systems.
A note on the Switch 2
Nintendo's newer generation, the Switch 2, brings its own controllers and its own accessory ecosystem, and the broad shape of connecting a pad — sync once, then reconnect wirelessly, with wired and licensed-pad options alongside — carries the same logic forward. Exact compatibility between generations of hardware and controllers is the kind of detail that is best confirmed against Nintendo's official information for the specific console and pad you own, rather than assumed, because cross-generation support is not guaranteed to be total. Keep the principle — official or licensed pads are the safe route — and check the specifics for your exact hardware.
The short version
Sync a Pro Controller once with its USB-C cable and it reconnects wirelessly forever after. Pair any other recognised wireless pad from Change Grip/Order using its sync button. Stick to official or licensedcontrollers — Nintendo, 8BitDo, PowerA — because a generic or other-console pad may not work without an adapter. Use the dock's USB ports for 2.4GHz dongles and wired pads, remember wired play as the foolproof fallback, and remap buttons in System Settings if the layout is not right. Get those straight and connecting almost any sensible controller to a Switch is a two-minute job. When you are choosing a new pad, our best controllers for Switch and best wireless controllerspages line up the ones that connect without a fight — and once it is yours, keep it fresh with our how to clean a controller guide.
Questions
Frequently asked
How do I connect a Pro Controller to a Switch?
How do I pair a Bluetooth controller to a Switch?
Can I use a PS5 or Xbox controller on a Switch?
Can I remap controller buttons on a Switch?
Keep reading
Related
- Best controllers for SwitchThe pads that pair without a fight, ranked
- Best 8BitDo controllersLicensed Bluetooth pads, many with drift-proof sticks
- Controller that will not connectFixes when a pad that should pair refuses to
- Connect a controller to PCThe same pads, paired to a computer instead
- How to remap controller buttonsReassigning buttons across systems, in depth
- How to clean a controllerKeep the pad you just paired feeling new
Receipts
Sources
- Nintendo — official support for pairing, syncing and using controllers with the Switch
- iFixit — teardowns and repair guides for controllers, mice and other gaming hardware
We do not run a testing lab, and we do not pretend to. Where a measured number came from someone else's lab, we name them and link them. Where we could not verify something, we say so on the page rather than quietly leaving it out. Read our full method.